LIVING IN MILAN & EXPLORING THE NORTH OF ITALY
There is no greater experience for a young adult than to live abroad for a while, no matter how long, no matter the destination. Whether it is for a studies or job purpose, you have to adapt to a new environment and by doing so, you get to know yourself better.
I had the opportunity to spend four memorable months in Milan, in the course of the Erasmus program to complete the last year of my Anglo-American law bachelor degree.
Did Italia adopt me or did I adopt Italia?
I definitely can affirm that I have adopted the dolce vita lifestyle and the thought of going back to France is heartbreaking. A part of my life has been made here: friends, memories, trips... Milan feels like home to me now and yet, there are still quite a lot of places for me to explore. But in the meantime, here are my recommendations for you to enjoy this incredible town and its surroundings at their finest!
Buona lettura, X
MILAN
Places to visit
A little tip before we begin: every first Sunday of each month, public museums are free!
The Duomo cathedral ∣ rooftop
“Prossima fermata, next stop, Duomo”, announces the speaker in the red line subway.
It was day one for me in Milan and the Duomo was the very first place I went to visit.
Stepping out of the station, you can perceive this work of art. It stands on the Piazza Duomo, tall and majestic, made of marble, with a fine and detailed architecture you could stare at for hours.
Walking inside the Cathedral, the stained glasses caught my entire attention. If you visit the crypt, you will discover St Charles Borromeo in a crystal coffin.
But what is even more breathtaking is the view from the 45 meter-high. You can reach the top either by stairs (250 steps) or by lift, then walk around the Cathedral rooftop and admire its fine art from a closer perspective.
Good to know: tickets are valid for 72 hours
13€ or 7€ for Erasmus students: cathedral and rooftop by stairs
14€ or 9€ for Erasmus students: cathedral and rooftop by elevator
Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele II ∣ Shopping area
This is another symbol of Milan, the baroque golden aisle with a vaulted architecture, its luxury boutiques and restaurants. The light comes in through the rooftop made of glass and brightens the white and yellow walls, the floor and its mosaics.
One of them is well-known for bringing some luck to whoever spins three times over the bull’s testicles. Look for the mosaic around which people gather and try your luck!
If your budget only allows you to window shop in the Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele II, you can actually go on shopping at the Rinascente shopping centre, or along Corso Vittorio Emmanuele II and Via Torino.
Corso Como ∣ Eataly
Facing the Garibaldi train station, opens a singular street named Corso Como, with its restaurants and fashion boutiques. Two of them are particular: Eataly and 10 Corso Como.
Eataly is the temple of food, of Italian food, and that makes it even more divine.
10 Corso Como hides a café, a gallery and a design store with home decorations, accessorizes and clothes. Its black round logo is noticeable as it appears everywhere, on every product.
Castello Sforzesco ∣ Parco Sempione
From the Duomo Cathedral, down the Via Dante, you will make your way to the Sforzesco Castle. This fortress from the XIV/XVth century, made of brown bricks, had once been a military base and then served as a residence for the Milanese Dukes, starting with Francesco Sforza.
Going through the first gate, you will face the main courtyard from which you can decide whether to explore the smaller ones, visit the different museums incorporated to the castle or have a walk in the Parco Sempione.
This green lung of Milan is the ideal place to have a sunbath or play ball-games while listening to some street musicians. Bridges, the Arco della pace (arch of peace) and tortoises are also part of the background.
Navigli
Looking for a bar? Navigli. An aperitivo? Navigli. A spot to enjoy the sunset, close to the water, with a musical atmosphere? Navigli.
Navigli is the answer to all your needs!
During the day, you can walk along the river and its markets. At night, enjoy the wave of talks, clinking of cocktail glasses and the musical background.
Universita degli studi di milano
In Via Festa del Perdono 7 rises one of the most iconic buildings of the city, La Statale (1924), where I had the honour to study for four months.
Its architecture is one of a kind with its numerous columns, peristyle, patio and central courtyard.
The building is open to tourists and even hosts exhibitions during the Design Week (Fuorisalone).
Fondazione Prada
Being a contemporary art addict is not a requirement here: there are so many things to see, different rooms and influences... everyone can feel and interpret a little something, which makes the place quite interesting and deserving to be visited.
Teatro alla Scala
Down the galleria Vittorio Emmanuele II, there is a white building, quite unimpressive, undistinguished... how could you guess that on the inside, is one of the most famous Italian Operas?
I cannot tell how delighted I felt when I stepped inside this building for a performance of Cinderella (Cenerentola); for my very first opera ever, I was in Milan and in a box for 6 people facing the stage. The auditorium looked unreal: it was all about golden sculpted details, red velvet seats, curtains and opulent chandeliers.
The show was even more fascinating than the place: it is insane how these artists manage to push human gifts beyond what we could ever imagine and at the same time, they absorb you in the story they are telling.
Pirelli Hangar Bicocca
If you have some spare time, you can pass by Pirelli Hangar and its temporary exhibitions for free.
Mario Merz, “Igloos”
Galleria Italia
The melting pot of art: different times, artists and movements... there are not only paintings but also sculptures. Some emblematic scenes are immortalized in frames like the last kiss between Romeo and Juliet by Francesco Hayez.
Armani Silos
Milan is well known for being a worldwide fashion capital. Armani Silos is a fashion museum partly dedicated to exhibitions but mostly to Giorgio Armani’s fashion empire and creations.
Chinatown
Writing this article, I realise how popular this kind of neighbourhood is: in almost all the countries I have visited so far, there was a Chinatown area. Here you will find Asian grocery stores, beauty and fashion shops but most importantly, street food spots. These latter are the reason why tourists invade these streets, just like I did.
Flamingos in Palestro
In a secret area of the vibrant heart of Milan, behind the fence of a private property, you can observe the soft and delicate walk of flamingos.
Novecento museum
In this contemporary art museum, there is a room from which you can enjoy a perfect view of the Duomo cathedral and even, sometimes, music shows.
Cimitero Monumentale di Milano
This is not an ordinary cemetery. First of all there is a big structure at the entrance, the Famedio, inside which rest important characters.
Then, for the rest of the graves, they are decorated with sculptures giving the tombs some kind of life or at least an idea of the person the dead used to be... perhaps it is just how their relatives feel after the loss of a beloved one... This sort of funeral art gives a particular ambiance to the place, a more relaxing one than in a common cemetery.
All in all, the name suits the place: the Monumental cemetery is like no other.
Places where to eat: restaurants, brunch spots, gelaterie, bars, aperitivo/aperitivi, cafés...
Good to know: restaurants generally charge an extra fee for water, bread and service called “coperto”; its amount is generally indicated at the bottom of the menu
Luini
Hidden at the end of one of the Vittorio Emmanuelle Gallery’s aisles, Luini is the key place to try a panzerotti! This small kind of pizza or calzone but fried is not only tasty but very cheap and the long line of tourists in front of the shop speaks for itself.
Prices around 2,70 / 3 euros.
Spontini
Playing in the thick dough pizza category and the most attractive for tourists, Spontini!
This chain of restaurants conquers all hearts with pizza dough soft as a cloud and cheesy mozzarella! The entrance to heaven costs around 5 euros.
Panificio Regina/Principessa (Porta Ticinese)
While tourists invade Spontini, students and workers reach bakeries. The Panificio Regina/Principessa, close to the Santa Sofia campus (University), offers genuine thick dough pizzas, with a wide range of choices contrary to Spontini where the variety is quite limited. Prices are pretty much equivalent between the two places.
Panificio Contu (pasticceria, focacceria)
On the way to the subway station, in the street where I was living (Via Plinio), it was hard to resist to the smell coming from the Contu bakery; and many times, my weak heart melted for their spinach and ricotta arancine (fried rice balls) and pizzette (miniature pizzas with tomatoes and mozzarella or tomatoes and olives).
Princi Bakery
Working as partners with Starbucks
La Ravioleria Sarpi ∣ Chinatown
Look for the long waiting line. People queue here to enjoy those raviolis, baos or stuffed crepes (like omelettes) that received awards from organisms such as Tripadvisor. A little treat for 4 euros.
The fisherman pasta
Calling all the fish lovers...! My dear people, this is a place for you to satisfy your appetite for seafood combined with your pasta addiction.
Vongole, cozze, sarde... all your favourites gathered in one menu, from 9 to 12 euros.
Simple and effective!
Miscusi
The pasta holy place!
Here, your wishes are command: you select the kind of pasta and the sauce you want, then let the magic happen. You can also fall for one of their recommendations.
Favourite: Pacchero tricolore
Pizzium
My pizza sanctuary, my headquarters...
Whether you are on the white-base or red-base team, you will find the one made for you! Even the decorations from the walls to the plates will make you fall in love with this place.
Favourites: Doganella and Duchesca
Obica
The mozzarella bar everyone knows about because we all love mozzarella right? For a special experience, enjoy the restaurant located on the Rinacente rooftop, the terrace faces the Duomo cathedral.
Favourite: their stracciatella is to die for!
L’OV Milano
Our favourite brunch place where pancakes and salmon toasts are not only delicious but huge!
You can either chose one of their formulas (between 12€ and 15€) or compose your own brunch menu (from 4,50€ to 7€ for each component).
Cioccolatitaliani
Six words you will thank me for: the three chocolates ice cream cone!
Grom
Savour your ice cream till the very end and beg for another one!
Fior di latte
Order an iced-tiramisu, have a seat in one of their sofas and enjoy tea time the Italian way!
MAG Café
One of Navigli’s numerous bars, MAG Café distinguishes itself in many ways: its elaborated cocktail menu, its ham and cheese platters and last but not least its uncommon decorations, even the bartenders are part of the experience, dressed up in a fashionable way. This place will take you back to the good old days and make you feel like a dandy.
Favourite cocktail: This is Nola
Gin O12
Gin lovers this is your new sanctuary! The menu is so long that you will need more than just one visit to this place to try all of their cocktails.
C’éra una volta
Facing the university, this café is always frequented... in the morning for a quick breakfast before classes, at lunch time to grab a piece of pizza but mostly after lectures when students meet for a kind-of-aperitivo made of spritz, crisps, pizzas, laughs and conversations.
Il fortino
A cosy spot for an aperitivo with swings, sofas, subdued light and some music.
Fonderie milanesi
One of the most famous aperitivo places in Milan where it is mandatory to book in advance (they never answer to phone calls but you can try to contact them via Facebok/Messenger). The open-air space looks like a garden party with long wooden tables and benches, light bulbs garlands and gravel.
Starbucks reserve Roastery
This old post building now hosts the third bigger Starbuck reserve roastery after those in Seattle and Shanghai, with at its core, a genuine bronze cask used to roast coffee beans. More than just a coffee place, this is a monument for coffee lovers.
Coffice
When it comes to work or to study, this is where I would head to. It is a co-working space where you pay for the amount of time you stay in with unlimited access to coffee, tea, drinks and snacks. The place is also equipped with a great internet connection and a printer.
My home cafè
This is another co-working space but here you pay for what you want to eat or drink and stay as long as you want.
Colibrì
Next to the university, this coffee place is one of the most charming with its sofas, its piano and little backyard.
Places to go out
Alcatraz, Le Banque, Just Cavalli, Hollywood, The Club
Where to sleep
Ostelzzz
A modern capsule hostel looking like a spatial station with all services included: safety deposit boxes in each capsule, common kitchen, reception, breakfast...
Access to dormitories and bathrooms is regulated with a personalised code which makes the place safer.
Airports & transports
There are three airports serving Milan, more or less directly: Linate, Malpensa and Bergamo.
Linate airport is the closest: the bus 73 will take you to the city centre (Duomo) within 30 minutes.
Bergamo airport has a bus and a train service to reach the city of Milan.
Last but not least, from Malpensa airport Milan is accessible by train.
For long stays in Milan, the best option is the ATM Card: 22€ /month, all transport facilities
There is however a specific subscription for those who would rather ride a bike: 9€/month with the BikeMi app
For shorter stays, you have different options:
1 ticket for a single journey (one way): 1,50€
24 hours ticket: 4,50€
48 hours ticket: 8,25€
BOLOGNA
Bologna, where archways prevail all around this city marked with history, where you can eat a genuine ragù but you may be more familiar with the name of ‘bolognese’.
Three hours away from Milan by bus, lose yourself in this maze of streets. They may all seem similar, but if you look closer they are not, they are all singular with secret spots and public places.
Due Torri
One of the most famous places in Bologna.
These two towers, Asinelli and Garisenda, are also part of the historic symbols of the city and both are slanting.
Piazza Maggiore ∣ Piazza del Nettuno
This is the main place of Bologna, where stands the Fontana del Nettuno, facing the Palazzo Re Enzo, the Basilica di San Petronio and the Palazzo Comunale which is the actual city hall of Bologna, noticeable with its huge clock tower.
Hidden Canals ∣ La Piccola Venezia
In Via Piella, you will find some hidden doors, in the walls and if you open them, you will discover hidden canals in the middle of inhabitations that will make you feel like you were in Venice. This is not the only spot to capture this view, there are two more but these are for you to find out now that you know from where to start...
Universita degli studi di Bologna, or the most ancient European university.
Via dell'indipendenza
This is the main street of Bologna, from the train station to the shopping area.
Mercato di Mezzo
This food market is a tiny place but the quality of meals served here is beyond what you could expect and prices are totally affordable.
La Rustica, via calabria
We could not leave Bologna without trying a real ragù. At La Rustica, not only the ragù was savory, but the place exhales those good old Italian vibes.
Madonna di San Luca
I did not have enough time to visit this one, but it was and still is on my "To-do list"...
A little bit distant from the city centre, the way to this wonderful sanctuary, il portico di San Luca, is made of 666 arches and gives a splendid panorama.
Flixbus: around 20€ round trip
LAGO DI COMO
If you want to escape for one day from the dynamic of Milan, the lakes are the perfect destination.
To reach Lago di Como, one hour journey by train from Milan to Varenna is all it takes. Once in Varenna, you can take a boat to Bellagio where there are plenty of restaurants and shops. Spend your day strolling in Varenna and Bellagio’s quiet, colourful and flowery alleys or sit on a bench and admire the Como lake’s heavenly blue.
Where to eat: Antico Pozzo
Train: 1h, 14€ round trip
LAGO MAGGIORE
Hands down my favourite lake! Breathtaking, astonishing, stunning... all these adjectives are appropriate to describe Lago Maggiore and the Borromean islands.
This piece of paradise is only an hour away from Milan by train. Drop off at Stresa and take a boat to Isola Bella and Isola dei Pescatori (Isola Madre is a private island).
On Isola dei Pescatori, you will find art and craft shops, restaurants and small inhabitations.
On Isola Bella, you cannot miss the baroque Palazzo Borromeo and its fascinating gardens from where you can cherish Lago Maggiore endless blue.
ps: enjoy the pictures gallery
Train: 1h, 18€ round trip
LAGO DI GARDA
Probably a little less crowded than the Como and Maggiore lakes, the Garda lake is the one to reach if you look for a serene escapade without particularly looking for a water spot.
To make it to Desenzano del garda, it only takes 1h20 by train. Depending on the day, you may find a little market before discovering the quay, the harbour and the Venice bridge.
After a little ascension among some nice alleys, you will attain the Castello di Desenzano.
Where to eat: La Locanda
Train: 1h20, 19€ round trip
CINQUE TERRE
Have you ever seen that divine postcard landscape? Those fishermen villages with small colourful inhabitations close to the water? Well, it turns out to be real...
Depending on how much time you are willing to spend in this region, it can be explored within two or three days. This how we planned our stay and our itinerary.
We booked an Airbnb at La Spezia and spent the afternoon in Leirici, accessible by bus and from where you can get a preview of what awaits for you in Cinque Terre with its tiny Italian steep streets, seasides and more...
The day after, we started our excursion to Cinque terre by train and to do so, I recommend you to get a Cinque terre Card (16€ for a day). We made our way to three stops: Riomaggiore, Vernazza and Manarola.
These villages are pretty much alike to one another, rustic, traditional, genuine, but still with their own essence.
There is also the possibility to enjoy the view from the sea, from a village to another as we did from Vernazza to Manarola (80€ for 5 persons, 16€ each).
In Vernazza, you cannot miss the fried sea food cornets from Batti Batti friggitoria: calamari, sardine, crab, codfish... even vegetables, lemon and here is your quick snack to enjoy by the sea.
In Manarola, there is one inevitable place, the Nessun Dorma terrace; remember this name, you won’t regret it. From a high spot, enjoy a panoramic and magnificent view of the village with a glass of Spritz and some sharing platters of great and savoury bruschettas, foccacias... enough to make you feel like a celebrity without spending a lot of money! Told you, the icing on the cake to your day.
Train : 3h, 35-40€ round trip
SANTA MARGHERITA ∣ PORTOFINO
These are places to be when you need a break, to make you feel like you were on holidays.
Both edged by the Ligurian sea, Santa Margherita and Portofino offer charming landscapes with boats, bathing places, palm trees, gardens, castles, colourful buildings...
Train to Santa Margherita Ligure-Portofino: 2h30, 30€ round-trip
From Santa-Margherita to Portofino: 30min by bus
VERONA
“What’s in a name? That which we call a rose by any other name would smell as sweet”
May you know or not this quote, when it comes to Verona there is one play that has to be mentioned as it took place right here... it is the classic Romeo and Juliet by William Shakespeare and so related monuments are inevitable.
Casa di Giulietta ∣ Balcony
Walk through the gate and make your way in the little yard where you could finally observe Juliet’s famous balcony.
There is also a bronze statue of Juliet down the balcony and rumour has it that if you touch Juliet’s right breast, it will guarantee you love and happiness. Another legend says that Juliet answers to anyone that submits to her an advice column and leaves it on the wall behind the bronze statue.
For those who are willing to, there is the possibility to buy a ticket and step inside this Capulet’s house museum.
Tomba di Giulietta
15 minutes away from this house, rests Juliet’s soul. Her grave is obviously empty but is said to be where she married Romeo and where her mortal remains were kept.
Ponte Pietra
This marble bridge crosses the Adige River and links the city side with the little-more-like rural side of Verona.
Castel San Pietro
Two ways to reach the Castle located on the San Pietro hill (the Castle’ strategic position was well estimated during wartimes): by stairs or with the funicular (paying), but it is totally doable by stairs so you can take a look at the lovely flowery inhabitations.
Once you walked your way to the top, enjoy the panoramic view of Verona.
Arena di Verona
Dated from the Roman period, this amphitheatre is older than the Coliseum in Rome but still hosts events and welcomes spectators.
Piazza delle Erbe
This place used to be a Roman forum. It is a real web of history regarding all the monuments it joins together in one place, such as the Madonna fountain, the Lamberti tower (Torre dei Lamberti), the Palazzo del Comune and more...
Even though the place is quite small, it does not prevent some merchants to display their products.
Where to eat: Mazzini 27
Train: 1h10, 27€ round trip
VENICE
The floating city, the carnival, the masks... there are so many reasons to be interested in and fascinated with Venice. This place charmed me, totally got me under its spell and that feeling will have me back there.
Piazza San Marco
Venice’s vibrant heart where you will find the majestic San Marco Cathedral, the Campanile (the bell tower from which the church bells ring the time to pray, the communal service...) and the Palazzo Ducale or Doge’s Palace (an old residence for the supreme authority in Venice, the doge, who had tenure of legislative, executive and judiciary powers).
The place leads to the Gran Canale (Grand canal), the main maritime road.
Ponte dei Sospiri
Improperly famous for love ideals, this bridge’s origins are related to convicts who were conducted from the Doge’s Palace to prison. The bridge carries its name from their sights and not those of lover, but still couples keep on kissing when their gondola goes beneath the bridge.
Ponte di Rialto
This bridge is monumental regarding its architecture as well as its size and design. Allowing pedestrians to cross the canal is not its sole purpose, this bridge is also a small market place.
Arsenale ∣ Biennale foundation
The Biennale is a foundation devoted to art in different ways: architecture, dance, music, drama, cinema... It organises events in fixed places such as Arsenale.
At the time I was visiting Venice, there was an exhibition going on and the most notable work of art was “Building bridges” by Lorenzo Quinn.
It represented six giant pairs of hands, joining and holding in different manners with a particular meaning each to spread a message of humanity: friendship, wisdom, help, faith, hope, love.
Gondola tour
There is no proper experience in Venice comparable to a gondola tour. The time of a ballad, rely on your gondolier for a unique tour of the city, in this mysterious maze of canals. Discover the secrets of the floating city while listening to the stories and legends told by your gondolier.
120€ per boat for 6 ppl; 20€/pers. for 45min
Train: 2h20, 40€ roundtrip
It is not advisable to book a journey with a change to make at Verona because most of the time trains from Milan are late and then you may miss the train from Verona to Venice...
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